9+ Secrets: How Long to Leave 20 Vol Bleach On Hair?


9+ Secrets: How Long to Leave 20 Vol Bleach On Hair?

The duration for which bleach, when mixed with a 20 volume developer, remains on hair is a critical factor in achieving the desired level of lightening. This timeframe dictates the extent to which the bleach lifts the hair’s natural pigment, influencing the final color outcome. For instance, leaving the mixture on for too short a period may result in an insufficient lift, leaving the hair brassy or orange, whereas excessive exposure can lead to damage and breakage.

Employing a 20 volume developer offers a balance between lightening power and hair integrity. This strength is often chosen for achieving subtle lightening, blending grays, or for use on finer or more delicate hair types. Historically, the understanding of bleach and developer interaction has evolved, leading to more refined application techniques and a greater emphasis on minimizing damage while maximizing desired color results. This approach ensures a healthier outcome and reduces the risk of compromised hair structure.

The determination of optimal processing time involves several considerations, including hair type, pre-existing hair condition, and the desired shade. Subsequent sections will detail factors influencing processing time, offer guidance on monitoring the lightening process, and emphasize the importance of strand tests for achieving safe and effective results.

1. Initial hair color

The starting hair color exerts a significant influence on the required processing time when using bleach with a 20 volume developer. The depth and intensity of the natural or previously colored pigment directly correlates with the time needed to achieve the desired level of lift.

  • Darker Hair Shades (Levels 1-3)

    Darker hair, encompassing black and very dark brown shades, possesses a greater concentration of melanin. Bleaching this type of hair with a 20 volume developer necessitates an extended processing period to break down the substantial pigment load. Insufficient processing can result in unwanted warm undertones, such as red or orange, as the bleach struggles to lift through all the layers of pigment. Time can be from 45 minutes to 1 hour and careful monitoring required to avoid hair damage.

  • Medium Hair Shades (Levels 4-6)

    Medium brown and dark blonde hair contain a moderate amount of melanin. When bleaching with a 20 volume developer, the processing time is generally shorter compared to darker shades. However, achieving a very light blonde may still require a considerable duration. Expect to keep the product on the hair between 30 to 45 minutes.

  • Lighter Hair Shades (Levels 7-9)

    Light blonde and very light blonde hair have a minimal amount of natural pigment. Bleaching with a 20 volume developer on these shades primarily focuses on removing any remaining warmth or achieving a brighter tone. The processing time is significantly reduced to prevent over-processing and potential damage. Usually under 30 minutes or less for previously bleached hair.

  • Previously Colored Hair

    Hair that has been previously colored, especially with darker dyes, presents unique challenges. Artificial pigment can be more difficult to lift than natural melanin, potentially requiring a longer processing time or multiple bleaching sessions. Assessing the type and intensity of the existing color is crucial in determining the appropriate processing duration and minimizing the risk of uneven results. Bleach might sit on hair for about 30-60 minutes depending on the color to be removed.

In summary, the initial hair color serves as a fundamental determinant in establishing the appropriate processing time when using a 20 volume developer. Understanding the amount of pigment present is crucial for achieving the desired level of lift while maintaining hair health and integrity. Failing to properly assess initial hair color can result in brassy tones or damaged hair with uneven lift.

2. Hair’s condition

The state of hair prior to bleaching significantly dictates the optimal processing time with a 20 volume developer. Compromised hair, characterized by dryness, breakage, split ends, or prior chemical treatments, exhibits increased porosity. This heightened porosity allows the bleach mixture to penetrate the hair shaft more rapidly, accelerating the lightening process, but simultaneously increasing the risk of damage. A strand test is highly recommended in such cases.

Healthy, virgin hair, conversely, possesses a tighter cuticle layer, offering greater resistance to chemical penetration. As a result, a longer processing time may be required to achieve the desired degree of lift. However, even with healthy hair, exceeding the maximum recommended processing time carries the risk of weakening the hair’s structure and inducing damage. For instance, hair that has been recently permed or relaxed will be more susceptible to breakage during bleaching, necessitating a significantly reduced processing time and meticulous monitoring. Overlap from previous bleach applications can cause banding and breakage, showing the importance of hair’s condition.

Therefore, a thorough assessment of hair’s condition is paramount before commencing the bleaching process. Adjustments to the processing time based on this assessment are crucial for achieving the desired lightening results while minimizing the potential for irreversible damage. Ignoring the hair’s existing condition can result in severe structural compromise, necessitating extensive repair treatments or, in extreme cases, hair loss. A reduced processing time must be considered along with gentler bleaching formulas when bleaching compromised hair.

3. Desired lightness level

The target shade significantly influences the duration that bleach, in conjunction with a 20 volume developer, remains on the hair. The extent of lightening desired directly correlates with the required processing time, impacting the final color outcome and potential for damage. The user should understand that the lighter shade they want, the longer the bleach may need to sit on the hair.

  • Achieving Subtle Highlights

    When subtle highlights are the objective, a shorter processing time is appropriate. The goal is to lift the hair only a few shades, creating dimension and enhancing the existing color without a drastic change. For example, adding caramel highlights to medium brown hair requires less processing time than taking dark brown hair to platinum blonde.

  • Reaching a Medium Blonde

    Attaining a medium blonde shade, such as a honey or golden blonde, necessitates a moderate processing time. This level of lightening requires lifting through several layers of pigment while avoiding excessive brassiness. This goal should be reachable without excessive damage to the hair, but is only achievable with great care.

  • Achieving Platinum Blonde

    To achieve platinum blonde, which involves a significant reduction of pigment, a more extended processing time is typically required. This drastic change demands lifting the hair to its palest yellow stage, often involving multiple bleaching sessions. It will also likely require a higher volume developer with the risk of more severe hair damage. A 20 volume developer can still work, but requires much longer processing times to be effective and get the hair to the right level.

  • Toning Considerations

    The desired final shade also influences processing time because it affects the required level of lift. Even if the target is not platinum blonde, a cooler-toned blonde (ash blonde, for example) requires a lighter base than a warmer-toned blonde (golden blonde). Achieving the correct base for the desired tone is critical. This may require more than one bleaching session depending on the starting level of the hair.

The selection of a 20 volume developer, as opposed to a higher volume, often reflects a preference for a slower, more controlled lightening process. This approach minimizes damage but necessitates an accurate assessment of the required processing time to achieve the specific target shade. Therefore, the interplay between desired lightness and appropriate processing time is vital for successful hair lightening when employing a 20 volume developer.

4. Strand test results

Strand test results are a critical determinant of the appropriate processing time when bleaching hair with a 20 volume developer. These results provide a small-scale preview of the outcome, allowing for adjustments before full application. A strand test assesses how quickly the hair lifts, identifies potential damage, and reveals the underlying tones that emerge during the lightening process. For instance, if a strand test on dark brown hair reveals significant brassiness after 30 minutes with a 20 volume developer, it indicates that a longer processing time, or an alternative approach, may be necessary to achieve a cleaner blonde while mitigating the risk of unwanted orange or red tones. Conversely, rapid lifting and signs of damage during a strand test signal the need for a shorter processing time to preserve hair integrity.

The practical application of strand test findings extends to customizing the bleaching strategy. Should a strand test demonstrate uneven lightening, adjustments to the application technique, such as sectioning or product saturation, can be implemented to ensure a uniform result across the entire head. Moreover, the strand test can inform the selection of the appropriate toner to neutralize any undesirable undertones revealed during the lightening process. The test’s predictive value is particularly significant for individuals with previously colored or chemically treated hair, where the interaction with bleach can be unpredictable. If the strand test show signs of immediate damage, the decision to not proceed can be considered.

In conclusion, strand test results serve as a vital guide in determining the optimal processing time for bleach and a 20 volume developer. These results offer indispensable information about the hair’s response to the chemicals, empowering informed decisions that balance desired lightening with hair health. Ignoring the insights gained from a strand test increases the likelihood of unsatisfactory results, damage, and potentially, the need for corrective treatments. The test essentially provides the user more agency in determining “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol”.

5. Developer’s volume impact

The developer’s volume exerts a direct influence on the processing time required when bleaching hair. The volume, typically expressed as a number followed by “vol,” indicates the concentration of hydrogen peroxide, the active lightening agent. This concentration dictates the speed and intensity with which the bleach lifts pigment from the hair shaft, thereby determining the necessary exposure duration.

  • Oxidation Rate

    A higher developer volume, such as 30 or 40 vol, contains a greater concentration of hydrogen peroxide. This increased concentration accelerates the oxidation process, enabling faster pigment removal. Conversely, a lower volume developer, like the 20 vol being considered, delivers a slower, more controlled oxidation rate. This slower rate necessitates a longer processing time to achieve the same degree of lift compared to higher volumes. For example, hair that might lighten to a level 7 with 30 vol in 30 minutes could take 45-60 minutes with 20 vol.

  • Hair Integrity

    The impact of developer volume extends beyond mere speed. Higher volumes, while efficient, also pose a greater risk of damage to the hair structure. The rapid oxidation can compromise the hair’s protein bonds, leading to dryness, breakage, and increased porosity. A 20 vol developer, due to its lower concentration, is generally considered a gentler option. This gentler action reduces the likelihood of severe damage, but it also requires a more patient approach, with longer processing times needed to achieve the desired level of lightening.

  • Level of Lift

    Different developer volumes are suited for varying degrees of lift. A 20 volume developer is typically used for achieving 1-2 levels of lift. When a more significant change is desired, such as going from dark brown to light blonde, a higher volume developer is often necessary to efficiently break down the larger amount of pigment. Attempting to achieve a substantial lift with a 20 volume developer may require excessively long processing times, potentially causing damage without achieving the desired result.

  • Formulation Compatibility

    Developer volume affects the consistency and efficacy of the overall bleaching mixture. The developer’s volume influences the activation of the bleaching powder. Using an inappropriate developer volume can alter the texture and performance of the mixture, potentially affecting the evenness and predictability of the lightening process. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

In summary, developer volume is a pivotal factor influencing the necessary processing time. A lower volume, like 20 vol, demands a longer application to achieve a specific lift, but offers a potentially gentler experience. Selecting the appropriate developer volume requires a careful balance between desired lightening speed, hair health considerations, and the targeted level of lift, with these considerations being key to using “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol” effectively.

6. Bleach brand variability

Bleach formulations vary significantly across brands, influencing the duration for which they should remain on hair when mixed with a 20 volume developer. These variations stem from differences in ingredient concentrations, buffering agents, and additives designed to mitigate damage or enhance lightening performance. As such, a standardized processing time cannot be universally applied, and adherence to manufacturer instructions is crucial.

  • Varying Strengths of Lightening Agents

    Different bleach brands utilize varying concentrations of persulfates, the primary lightening agents. Even within products designed for similar lift, the precise amount of these compounds can differ. Consequently, one brand might lighten hair more rapidly than another, even when both are mixed with a 20 volume developer. For example, a professional-grade bleach may contain a higher concentration of persulfates, necessitating shorter processing compared to a drugstore brand with lower concentrations. This difference directly affects the exposure time and underscores the importance of strand tests to assess individual product performance. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations and observe the hair carefully.

  • Buffering Agents and Additives

    Bleach formulations often include buffering agents to stabilize pH and additives like oils or polymers intended to protect the hair. These components can affect the speed of the lightening process. Products with strong buffering agents might slow the lightening process, requiring longer application times to achieve the desired lift. Brands incorporating protective additives may allow for slightly extended processing without excessive damage, but this should not be assumed. These protective agents don’t make it safe to leave bleach on the hair indefinitely. Again, carefully monitor the process is crucial.

  • Consistency and Mixing Ratios

    Bleach powder consistency and recommended mixing ratios can vary across brands. Some powders might be finer, leading to faster activation and potentially quicker lightening. Different brands may also recommend different mixing ratios with the developer. These variations can alter the overall chemical reaction and affect the lightening speed. Deviating from the manufacturer’s instructions can lead to unpredictable results, potentially damaging the hair or resulting in uneven lift. Following recommended mixing ratios can influence “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol” in various situations.

  • Ammonia Content and Odor Control

    Some bleach formulations contain ammonia to accelerate the lightening process, while others are ammonia-free. Ammonia-based bleaches tend to lighten hair more quickly but can also be more damaging. Brands with odor-masking agents may obscure the characteristic bleach smell, potentially leading users to underestimate the product’s strength. The odor itself is not a reliable indicator of strength, and processing time should always be determined by visual assessment and strand testing, not by smell.

In conclusion, the brand-specific variations in bleach formulations necessitate a cautious approach to determining processing time. Adherence to manufacturer instructions, combined with diligent strand testing and continuous monitoring, is essential for achieving desired lightening results while minimizing the risk of damage. These brand differences should be considered when estimating “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol” and should never be used as an excuse to bypass precautionary steps.

7. Room temperature

Room temperature significantly influences the rate of chemical reactions, including the lightening process facilitated by bleach mixed with a 20 volume developer. Elevated temperatures accelerate the reaction, causing the bleach to lift pigment at a faster pace. Conversely, lower temperatures retard the reaction, extending the required processing time to achieve a comparable level of lift. A practical example involves applying bleach in a room with stable temperature as the rate of the process can be changed as the temperature fluctuates. Leaving the mix in a cool area means that the reaction of the bleach mixture will happen at a slower pace.

The maintenance of a consistent room temperature throughout the bleaching process is crucial for predictable results. Fluctuations in temperature, whether due to drafts, heating vents, or changes in ambient conditions, can lead to uneven lightening. For instance, if bleach is applied in a warm room that subsequently cools down, the areas applied first may lighten faster than those applied later, creating noticeable banding. Similarly, applying bleach near a heating vent can cause localized overheating, resulting in over-processed spots and potential damage. Therefore, maintaining a stable room temperature, ideally between 70-75F (21-24C), promotes a uniform and controlled lightening process.

Understanding the interplay between room temperature and bleach processing time is essential for achieving desired lightening results while minimizing the risk of damage. Neglecting this factor can lead to unpredictable outcomes and compromised hair health. Accurate adjustment of “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol” in accordance with the prevailing room temperature should be a standard aspect of the bleaching procedure. A room that is stable during bleaching process can help user maintain the bleach in hair until it gets to the perfect level, and can help user minimize risk of the hair damage during the whole process.

8. Previous chemical treatments

Previous chemical treatments, such as perms, relaxers, or coloring, significantly influence the required processing time when using bleach with a 20 volume developer. These treatments alter the hair’s structure and porosity, affecting its response to subsequent chemical processes. For instance, hair previously relaxed is inherently more porous and fragile than virgin hair. Applying bleach to relaxed hair, even with a low-volume developer, necessitates a significantly shorter processing time to prevent breakage and over-processing. The cumulative effect of these treatments must be considered to avoid severe damage. Chemical buildup from hair products also affect the process, but this is not the central point here.

Prior coloring also plays a critical role. Hair previously colored with permanent dye may exhibit uneven porosity, leading to unpredictable lightening results. Darker dyes, in particular, can be difficult to lift, potentially requiring multiple bleaching sessions or extended processing times. However, prolonged exposure to bleach, even with a 20 volume developer, carries a substantial risk of damage, making careful strand testing and frequent monitoring essential. Direct dyes (semi-permanent), on the other hand, typically fade relatively easily, but some colors can stain the hair and affect the final tone achieved. Moreover, prior use of metallic dyes can create dangerous reactions with bleach, leading to hair damage and potential chemical burns, which is why patch and strand tests are particularly important here.

In summary, previous chemical treatments establish the foundation for determining the appropriate processing time when bleaching hair with a 20 volume developer. A comprehensive understanding of the hair’s history is paramount to avoid irreversible damage and achieve predictable results. Ignoring this factor can result in compromised hair health and unsatisfactory lightening outcomes, highlighting the absolute necessity of considering previous chemical treatments when determining “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol”.

9. Hair porosity

Hair porosity, the hair’s capacity to absorb and retain moisture, directly influences the optimal processing time when using bleach with a 20 volume developer. This characteristic dictates the rate at which the bleaching agent penetrates the hair shaft, affecting both the speed and uniformity of lightening. Hair with high porosity, characterized by open cuticles, absorbs the bleach mixture rapidly. Consequently, a shorter processing time is necessary to prevent over-processing and damage. Conversely, low porosity hair, possessing tightly closed cuticles, resists the entry of chemicals, requiring a longer processing time to achieve the desired level of lift. An example includes hair that has been previously bleached and has high porosity. Bleach will work very quickly and process faster than virgin hair that is less porous.

Practical application involves assessing hair porosity prior to bleaching. A simple test involves observing how quickly hair strands sink or float in water; rapid sinking indicates high porosity, while prolonged floating suggests low porosity. This assessment informs the adjustment of processing time, product saturation, and monitoring frequency. High porosity hair might benefit from a pre-treatment with protein fillers to equalize porosity and minimize damage during bleaching. Additionally, carefully watching the hair is important to make sure that the hair doesn’t become compromised during bleaching process.

In conclusion, hair porosity acts as a critical determinant in the efficacy and safety of bleaching with a 20 volume developer. Understanding and accounting for this characteristic minimizes the risk of over-processing or uneven lightening, leading to healthier and more predictable results. The challenge lies in accurately assessing porosity and adjusting the bleaching strategy accordingly, ensuring a balanced approach that prioritizes hair integrity while achieving the desired color transformation.

Frequently Asked Questions

This section addresses common inquiries regarding the appropriate processing time for bleach when combined with a 20 volume developer, aiming to provide clear and informative answers based on best practices and established hair care principles.

Question 1: What is the maximum recommended time to leave bleach on hair when using a 20 volume developer?

The maximum recommended processing time is generally 50 minutes. Exceeding this duration significantly increases the risk of hair damage, regardless of the developer volume. Constant monitoring is still needed throughout the whole process.

Question 2: Can a 20 volume developer damage hair if left on for too long?

Yes, even a 20 volume developer can cause significant damage if left on for an extended period. Over-processing can lead to dryness, breakage, and irreversible structural compromise.

Question 3: How does hair texture affect processing time with a 20 volume developer?

Fine hair generally processes faster than coarse hair due to its smaller diameter. Therefore, fine hair requires a shorter processing time, while coarse hair may need a longer duration to achieve the desired lift.

Question 4: Is it safe to apply heat when bleaching hair with a 20 volume developer to speed up the process?

Applying heat is generally not recommended, as it can accelerate the lightening process unpredictably and increase the risk of damage. Controlled, gradual lightening is preferable for preserving hair health.

Question 5: How do I know when the bleach has processed sufficiently when using a 20 volume developer?

Regular visual assessment is crucial. Periodically check a strand of hair to evaluate the level of lift achieved. The hair should reach the desired shade without exhibiting signs of excessive dryness or elasticity loss.

Question 6: What steps should be taken after bleaching hair with a 20 volume developer to minimize damage?

After bleaching, thoroughly rinse the hair, apply a protein-rich conditioner to restore strength, and follow with a moisturizing treatment to replenish hydration. Avoid heat styling for several days to allow the hair to recover.

Precise understanding of the factors influencing processing time is key to achieving safe and desired bleaching results with a 20 volume developer.

The following section provides further considerations for maintaining healthy hair after chemical processing.

Tips for Successfully Bleaching Hair with a 20 Volume Developer

Adhering to a strategic approach is essential for minimizing damage and achieving desired results when bleaching hair using a 20 volume developer. These tips offer guidelines for a safer and more effective lightening process.

Tip 1: Prioritize Hair Health Evaluate the hair’s condition before bleaching. Compromised hair requires pre-treatments to strengthen and hydrate the strands, reducing the risk of breakage during the bleaching process. The goal is a level base, without causing over-processing.

Tip 2: Conduct a Strand Test A strand test is indispensable for predicting the outcome of the full application. It reveals the processing time required, the level of lift achievable, and any potential adverse reactions. The user can use the test to adjust “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol” on their specific case.

Tip 3: Use Precise Measurements Accurate mixing ratios are critical for optimal bleach performance. Deviating from the manufacturer’s instructions can lead to inconsistent results or heightened damage. Measure both bleach powder and developer accurately and follow recommended procedures.

Tip 4: Apply Evenly and Quickly A uniform application ensures consistent lightening across the entire head. Work swiftly and systematically to saturate all strands, avoiding overlaps which can result in uneven color and breakage. This is especially important when the goal is achieving “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol” in a dark base.

Tip 5: Monitor Processing Closely Regularly assess the hair’s lightening progress. Visual inspection, combined with strand checks, allows for precise control over the process and minimizes the risk of over-processing. It is better to rinse early if the hair is becoming comprised to avoid long term damage.

Tip 6: Rinse Thoroughly and Condition Deeply After reaching the desired level of lift, rinse the hair thoroughly to remove all traces of bleach. Follow with a protein-rich conditioner to rebuild strength and a moisturizing treatment to restore hydration. Proper aftercare can assist in counteracting negative effects from “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol”.

Tip 7: Avoid Heat Styling Post-Bleach Refrain from using heat styling tools for several days following bleaching. Heat can further dehydrate and weaken the hair, increasing the likelihood of damage. Air drying is the best option during this period.

Applying these tips helps achieve successful bleaching with a 20 volume developer, leading to healthy and beautiful hair.

The concluding section offers a summary and final recommendations for using “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol” in practical application.

Conclusion

The preceding discussion has explored the multifaceted nature of determining “how long to leave bleach on hair 20 vol,” emphasizing the interplay of factors such as initial hair color, hair condition, desired lightness level, strand test results, developer volume impact, bleach brand variability, room temperature, previous chemical treatments, and hair porosity. This comprehensive examination underscores the absence of a universally applicable timeframe, advocating instead for a tailored approach based on individual hair characteristics and product specifications.

Effective hair lightening with a 20 volume developer requires diligence, meticulous attention to detail, and informed decision-making. The responsible application of these principles safeguards hair health, maximizes the potential for achieving desired aesthetic outcomes, and mitigates the risks associated with chemical processing. Commitment to thorough assessment and careful execution remains paramount for success.